From: katk@delphi.com
Subject: 2 Needle mini-sox
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 1994 16:30:28 -0500 (EST)
This is a knitting pattern which I worked this year.  I really like it and
hope others will

The finished sock is about 3 1/2 inches long and 2 inches wide.  This is
based on a worsted weight, different sized yarns will make different sized
socks.  You need 2 needles sized for the yarn you're using and a double-
pointed needle or stitch holder to carry stitches when turning the heel.
Since you will be rearranging the stitches twice, it is a bit faster to do
on 2 double pointed needles, but it doesn't matter much.  The project takes
just a few yards of yarn.

This pattern is one of those that's hard to follow in print but, after
about 4 rows, you can see what's happening.  I can do one of these little
guys in about an hour.  The technique is a combination of existing double
knitting techniques and mini sock patterns.  The only "trick" is the cast
on which allows you to do double knitting with an open end.  Remember, in
double knitting, 2 rows make one round as the first row will knit up one
side of the sock and the second will knit up the other.

CAST ON:   (this takes longer to write than it does to do and is hard to
            visualize but easy to figure out once you start.)

Break off a piece of the yarn about 24 inches long.  This is the non-working
        yarn.  The yarn on the ball is the working yarn.

Make a slip knot in the middle of the non-working yarn and put it on the
        needle.

Leaving a tail about 12 inches, make a slip knot in the working yarn and
        put it on the needle.  The 12 inch tails will be used to make a
        hanger later.

Bring the non-working yarn in front of and across the working yarn and
        loosely cast on one stitch.

Leave the working yarn behind the non-working yarn and loosely cast on one
        stitch.

Keep alternating cast ons between the working/non-working yarns until you
        have twenty stitches on the needle.  The last cast on should be
        from the working yarn.

RIBBING:  UNLESS OTHERWISE INDICATED, ALL SLIPPED STITCHES ARE SLIPPED AS
        IF TO PURL

Round 1, Row 1: *SL1, K1, SL1, bring yarn to front, P1, bring yarn to back*
                Repeat from * ending with P1.

    Be sure to carry your yarn IN BACK of the work at all times, bring it
    forward to make the purl stitch after you have slipped the previous
    stitch and take it to the back before you slip the next stitch.

Round 1, Row 2:   *SL1, K1, SL1, bring yarn to front, P1, bring yarn to
                  back*  Repeat from * ending with P1.  -   Repeat these
                  rows twice, giving three rounds of K1, P1 ribbing.

BODY:

Round 4, Row 1:   *SL1, K1*  Repeat from * ending with K1.
Round 4, Row 2:   *SL1, K1*  Repeat from * ending with K1.

Repeat Round 4, rows 1 & 2 11 times.  By this point you will be able to
        clearly see what is happening and how the tube is forming.  If you
        want, you can add some color.

HEEL:

Heel flap:   This is a good place to change colors if you would like.

Row 1: *Sl1 onto holder, P1*  Repeat from *.  End with 10 st on working
           needle.  Put held stitches aside.

Rows 2, 4, and 6: K10
Rows 3 and 5:     P10

Turning the heel:

Row 7:    P5, P2 tog, P1, turn
Row 8:    SL1 as if to knit, K1, SSK, K1,turn
Row 9:    SL1, P2, P2 tog, P1, turn
Row 10:   SL1 as if to knit, K3, SSK, K1, turn
Row 11:   P6, pick up and purl 4 st from heel flap, turn
Row 12:   K10, pick up and knit 4 st from heel flap, end with 14 st on the
          needle.

INSTEP:

Now you need to slip all the stitches back onto one needle.

SL2 from working needle, SL1 from holder, SL2 from working needle, (SL1
        from holder, SL1 from working needle) 6 times, (SL1 from holder,
        SL2 from working needle) 2 times, end with SL1 from holder.  24
        stitches total on needle.

    If you are doing this on DP needles, you can simply slide the stitches
to the other end and begin working.  If you are on single points you need
to pass all the stitches back to the other needle to get to the working end
of the yarn.

Next round, Row 1: (SL2, K1) twice, (SL1, K1) 6 times, (SL2, K1) twice

Next round, Row 2: (SL1, K2 tog) twice, (SL1, K1) 6 times, (SL1, K2 tog)
                   twice

Repeat Round 4, rows 1 & 2, 6 times.

TOE:  This is another good time to change colors if you want.

Repeat Round 4, rows 1 & 2 once

Rearrange the loops on the needle so that you have 2 from the front then 2
    from the back, etc.

First decrease round, Row 1:    * SL2, K2 tog * repeat ending with K2 tog.

First decrease round, Row 2:    *SL1, K2 tog * repeat ending with K2 tog.

Repeat Round 4, rows 1 & 2 once

Again, rearrange the loops on the needle to that you have 2 from the front
    then 2 from the back.

Repeat first decrease round.

Cut off working thread leaving a couple of inches of tail.  With needle or
    crochet hook pull the tail through the remaining loops, pull off
    needle, and pull tight.

Clean up any loose ends, twist tails at beginning into hanger loop, turn
inside out and, voila, you've done it.

!  .--.       <-=*=-><-=*=-><-=*=-><-=*=-><-=*=-><-=*=-><-=*=-><-=*-=>
! /_\/_\  !!    Kathreen Kruse
---
This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium
http://www.woolworks.org/